Day trip to Chianti

Chianti

Tuscany is a real gem - lots of historical and beautiful art cities such as Florence, Siena, Lucca, Pisa, Arezzo.... then beaches, mountains and of course the very famous countryside -who doesn't have a postcard in their mind with Tuscany panorama?
Sweet hills, little Borgos, small villages on top of the hill, cute and delicious trattorias and wine cellar where it is possible to taste excellent wines especially our local Chianti wine.

So, here you can find some tips to discover some of my favourite places in the Tuscan area

ALERT: In Italy you cannot drink and drive - laws has just been changed, and now half glass of wine is enough to be out of the rules. So, if you want to enjoy wine-tastings either some of your party will not drink, or you can hire a car and driver, possibly english speaking, so no problem AT ALL.
In case you wish some tips for that, write me, I know very good and professional drivers, personally tested.

Day trip to Chianti from Florence

Leave Florence towards Siena passing by the ancient gate of the city Porta Romana and follow directions to Siena on the Superstrada Firenze-Siena.
Few km later, you will see on your right an extensive cemetery where over 4000 soldier from Usa (especially) and other countries, rest in peace - it is a very important Second World War Cemetery

On your left, right after the exit Bargino, you will see the very modern and impressive Antinori wine cellar - if you wish to visit it, book well in advance your tasting and/or visit to cellar and exit at Bargino itself.

Our first stop will be the famous and beautiful medieval town of San Gimignano. Right before your exit Poggibonsi, you will see in distance a cradle of tall and slender tower-houses, the symbol of San Gimignano.

San Gimignano

About 8 km of sweet turns you will park outside of the ancient gate and take the first epic panorama photo from the wall before getting into the town. Wander around the small streets, shop in the few not touristy places  - I noticed especially a couple of leather shops that looked very very good.
If you have a strong stomach, visit the tortures museum, the best in this topic - difficult to suggest if going after or before lunch....
Climb a tower-house if you wish, this is the most commun type of civil house in the 12th and 13th century - it was used to defend the family in case of attack and they could arrive also to 90 metres - a real skyscraper! Consider in Florence there were 150 tower-houses, then all beheaded to 35-40 metres. San Gimignano is the only town that still preserve 11 tower-houses at original height. Impressive! And iconic.

San Gimignano suffers of very strong mass-tourism attack - so in season it could happen that is very crowded and no parking are available. A good alternative, not far and similar is Certaldo - a very cute medieval town, also with a tower-house, on top of the hill with dramatic panorama.

View from San Gimignano

Ready for your first wine-tasting and lunch?

Take back your car and put Fattoria di Sant'Appiano in your GPS. In 15-20 minutes from San Gimignano (or 5 minutes from the exit of Poggibonsi, in case you are not going to San Gimignano) you will reach this peaceful, relaxing and charming Fattoria - two nice ladies, mother and daughter, will show you how they restyled a 1400 house owned by the glorious Pitti Family and now they host  cooking classes, truffle hunting, wine-tastings accompanied by excellent home made food. And of course the principal activity of the fattoria - olives and grapes harvest!
You will visit the cellar, which is always a dream - a wine-smelly dream. mmmm adorable.
Definitely a good spot, out of the most touristic path, with big buses and lots of crowds.

Cellar at Fattoria Sant'Appiano



Fattoria Sant'Appiano

Ok, should we try also another place?

So, go back on the Superstrada Firenze-Siena towards Firenze - exit at San Donato and go right. You finally will connect with the world-wide famous road of wine n. 222 - it is gorgeus, I admit, but it is not the only road where you can enjoy spectacular views. All the Chianti area is very scenograpic, don't worry about getting the 222 if it is not in your plan. Don't feel guilty ;)

After few stops for taking pictures to a scenary to die for (I swear, you will stop!) you finally get to Azienda Agricola Poggio Amorelli, on top of a gentle hill covered with wineyards, resting after the harvest and waiting for spring.

Mangiafoco - delicious

Tray of cold cuts and cheeses

Today I'm going to talk about this place, where I go really often, especially for lunch cause it is in the heart of the city center, two steps away from Ponte Vecchio, it is open also later than usual, like 3 - 4 pm, and of course because it is really really good!

I'm talking about Mangiafoco, a cute, warm and romantic wine-bar with an extensive menu that goes with superb wines.
During lunch and dinner time (12,30 - 2,00 pm lunch and 7,30 - 10,00 pm for dinner) you will find different type of pasta, also homemade one. And then meat, vegetarian options and in season also a special Truffle Menu.

Out of the ordinary lunch and dinner time, you still can have amazing trays of cold cuts and cheeses (believe me, they have the best products!) or beautiful salads or just some vegetables with a buffalo mozzarella.

Upon request, they can organize also wine tastings - 2 or 3 different type of wines, accompanied by a tray of crostini, schiacciata, prosciutto, salame, pecorino cheese, truffled honey and jams.

I love Mangiafoco!
Make yourself a favor and go there, Elisa and Francesco will take good care of you!



Mangiafoco

Via Borgo Ss. Apostoli,  26r
0039 055 2658170



Ravioli with cheese and pears

Tagliata with artichokes



Cute atmosphere

Excellent wine list



Dado di manzo - cube of meat

My personal Tripadvisor - Restaurants in Florence

Buca Lapi - Bistecca

Tripadvisor is the most utilized way to check out Hotels and Restaurants; at least to have an idea of the type of place, where is located and see some photos. I do it myself too, and I also write feedbacks. But somehow you also have to be careful with Tripadvisor, cause not always it reflects the reality, especially when it comes to “where you are listed as position”.

So, since you often ask my opinion on where you sleep and eat, here’s my personal list

My favourite restaurants in Florence and surroundings

Tripadvisor – mmmm for the restaurants section I do not entirely agree ! The first 20/30 places are ice cream places (Gelateria) and sandwich stands where it is a miracle if you have a stool – no problem with sandwich and icecream ,  but how can you call these places “restaurants”???

My favourite places are normally easy going Trattorias where the relationship between quality/quantity and price is very good – I like to eat, I love going out for dinner, and for me this is a big part of a trip. You will find in my list also some gourmet place, but in general I’m not that type of person, I enjoy fine dining, but it is kind of too much, especially the too formal atmosphere.

Then another aspect to clarify – all of you ask me “I don’t want a tourist place” – I understand you wish a place where you do not have a fix menu with photos and 200 languages, or those creapy buffet places, but if you mean “I don’t want to hear English speaking” well, this is NOT POSSIBLE. Not even out of the city center. So, I will tell you places very good, very friendly, where as a local I go myself too, excellent wine list but for sure you will find tourists, Florence is full of tourists, luckily, and Florentines are rare as pandas... 
Divided by category:

Trattorias

Easy going places, typical, casual, Tuscan food, some will reflect the stereotypical idea of Tuscany, some have a modern twist – price range 35-70 Euro

Buca Lapi - one the best Bistecca in town (T-Bone steak), a bit more pricey but absolutely worthed, very difficult to get reservation, open just for dinner 
Via del Trebbio 1/r - Tornabuoni area - 055 213768

Touch Bistro - my number one right now - fresh tuscan cuisine, with a superb presentation and a TOP service, high level - small, intimate, out of the tourist path, local. Open just for dinner, in the morning they organize private cooking classes, for small groups, with visit to the local farmers market  
Via di Mezzo 42/r, 18/red - Santa Croce area - 055 2466150

Cinghiale Bianco - I adore the staff, too friendly, special for wild boar, artichokes salad and Mascarpone Cream - open only for dinner during the week, on the weekend also for lunch 
Borgo San Jacopo, 43 - Oltrarno area - 055 215706

Mangiafoco - charming wine bar with an extensive menu for pasta lovers, meat and vegetarian eaters, but especially for those who loves wine. In the good season you will find also truflle!
Open lunch and dinner, but also in the afternoon you can taste their great trays of coldcuts and cheeses 
Borgo SS Apostoli 26/r - Ponte Vecchio area - 055 2658170

Vini e Vecchi Sapori (no website) - literally a hole in the wall, few tables, always packed, but if you are lucky to get a table you are going to love this typical, crazy, busy and super florentine place. Pappardelle with duck sauce is my choice, and also raspberries Tiramisù - open lunch and dinner 
Via dei Magazzini 3 red - Signoria area - 055 293045

Il Parione - charming trattoria, great steak, also pasta and dessert are very good. In a nice quiet street, that has the same name 
Via del Parione 74/76 red - Tornabuoni area - 055 214005

Paoli - in a beautiful historical palace with frescoed ceilings and walls, an excellent choice especially for lunch since it is in the heart of downtown, where it is not easy to find a good place during your touring day 
Via dei Tavolini 12/r - Signoria area - 055 216215

Sostanza (no website) - super easy, super rustic, excellent Bistecca and artichokes omelette, only cash payment, open lunch and dinner, difficult to get a reservation 
Via del Porcellana 25/red - Santa Maria Novella area - 055 212691

Pandemonio - let Mamma taking care of you, she will treat you like the typical italian mum, so filling you up with good food! Open lunch and dinner 
Via del Leone 50/red - Oltrarno area  - 055 224002

Vecchia Bettola (no website) - just outside of the historical center, typical and old fashioned style trattoria, try fried things like chicken or rabbit, open lunch and dinner -  Via Vasco Pratolini, 3 - Oltrarno area, outside of the ancient wall- 055 224158

13 Gobbi - busy, lively, excellent wine list, fresh homemade pasta, open lunch and dinner - Via del Porcellana 9/red - Santa Maria Novella area - 055 284015


Fonticine - excellent Bistecca, old fashioned classic

Outlet the Mall and restaurants close by

Florence it's a fantastic city, full of art treasures, nobles palaces, art galleries, sculptures... a month it is not enough to visit all of the secret corners... while you're exploring the city, you might want to desire to do some shopping. Why not, we have the best boutiques, or the small artisan shops... but if you feel like do some shopping AND save a bunch of money, then you have to go to the Outlet the Mall!

It is very famous, people come on purpose, I think it's the best outlet. 22 of the main brands, such as Gucci, Armani, Valentino, Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Loro Piana, Marni, Dior, Tod's and so on....

Discount from 30 to 70 %, on items of the past collection.

It is only 30 minutes south Florence, going south on the highway A1 directions Rome; exit at "Incisa Valdarno", turn right after 10-15 minutes ride you'll get to Leccio, the little town where the Mall is located.

Very close by there is also Dolce & Gabbana outlet, and a bit more far away, 20 minutes souther there is Miu Miu and Prada Outlet.

The Mall
Via Europa, 8
Leccio-Reggello

Photo Source: Hotel Rigacci

Inside the Mall there is a cafeteria and a restaurant. But if you want to experience also the typical tuscan cuisine, in the countryside, then follow these tips:

Piazzetta al Burchio - a little Alimentari (a groucery shop) that have few tables where you can have a very simple but incredibly tasty meal. Typical tuscan cuisine, of course, pasta, lasagne, ravioli, tortelli, tagliata, bistecca, fried chicken, also different types of fish and cakes.They have a Menu del Giorno (menu of the day) that changes frequent, written on a simple yellow paper. Prices are incredibly low, first course 5 Euro, second course from 7 to 10 Euro, side dish and desserts 2 Euro. Nothing, no?
It is open every day for lunch and dinner, and it is also take away.

- How to get there from the Mall?
Go back towards Incisa Valdarno (out the Mall turn right) - before to get inside the town of Incisa turn right, cross the river Arno and turn right. Follow that street for 5 minutes and you'll get to a very small group of houses, called "Il Burchio". Park the car and look for the Alimentari, right on the main street.

There is also a Trattoria, but I have not tried. Seems definitely more expensive, and not necessarily better tasting.

Piazzetta Il Burchio

Località il Burchio, 13
055 8330880 - cell 335 6831844

No website
Open daily lunch and dinner

Accept credit cards

Rigatoni Gorgonzola and Mascarpone

Sformati (similar to omelette) of Broccoli, Zucchine and Spinach

Tagliere di salumi and crostini


Tasty Tagliata rosemary

If you want another tip, then I have to tell you a secret place, a pure jem, an Agriturismo located in the middle of Chianti hills, with 4 rooms, an amazing pool, a beautiful traditional restaurant... during the summer they organize open air cinemas, art forum, paitings exhibitions, it is a very cute and interesting place. And of course they produce their own wine, oil, vegetables, raise chickens and rabbits. The owner, Perla, is a charming lady very welcoming and warm.

What's the name of the place? Perlamora. They have fixed menu lunches and dinner, with 25 euro, beverage included, you'll have a full meal of antipasti, 2 first course, a second course and dessert. All products of the Agriturismo.

Go, I love this place.

- how to get there from the Mall?

Go right out the outlet, like going back to highway. Pass the town of Incisa and go on until you get to the next town of Figline Valdarno. Turn right at the Hotel Torricelli, then again right, towards Greve in Chianti and Ponte agli Stolli. Follow directions for Perlamora.

Perlamora

Via Golfonaia, 29

Pavelli - Figline Valdarno

055 951904

Reservation recommended

Accept credit cards

The beautiful Art Decò Villa in front of the agriturismo

the Restaurant


Antipasto Coccoli (like fried bread) ham and stracchino cheese

Sorry, no more photos, too much wine :)

Trattoria da Sergio in San Lorenzo

I had a quick lunch in this super simple Trattoria right in the middle of the Market of San Lorenzo, you'll find it behind the curtains of the hundrends of colourfull stands, in the main street next to the right nave of the Church of San Lorenzo.
I know there is another Sergio, but on the other side of the river, I haven't tried it yet.

This place doesn't have a website, it is very casual, I'll put you the telephone number but I'm not sure they accept reservations...
They're quick, and even if you see it is super packed try to ask to the waiters how long you'll have to wait, they'll give you an idea.

The menu is written on a simple papershit, like the table cloth and the furniture in general, the service, everything is easygoing but the quality of the food is top high, and you have the chance to try the real tuscan trattoria.

I had a "braciola fritta con patate e pomodori" that means fried milanese cotoletta style, with tomatoes and fried potatoes - huge portion and excellent taste!

Da Sergio is open only for lunch, and it is closed on Sundays.

Trattoria da Gozzi Sergio
Since 1915 (wow!)
Piazza S. Lorenzo, 8r
055 281941
Closed every evening and Sunday at lunch

Osteria Cinghiale Bianco - White Wild Boar

Finally I'm posting one of my favourite place in town - Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco, better known among foregneirs as White Wild Boar, which is the exact translation of the italian name. Thereore, plenty of little white wild boars will be your friends during dinner, on the simple paper table cloth, the wine jug, on the walls, everywhere :)
And of course inside your dishes, since the boar is their typical and special ingredient: tagliatelle with wild boar, wild boar stewed, cold cuts made by boar..... yummi!

The menu is based on Tuscan traditions, so all the pasta you can imagine, cold cuts, "crostini" and "bruschetta" and of course meat - also vegetables and some fish, bt mostly meat: "tagliata" "bistecca" " peposo alla fornacina", all famous dishes of our tradition.

Great dessert also, especially the Tiramisu or Strawberries with Mascarpone cream.... God, I could die for it!!

The place is very cozy, small, located in an ancient medieval tower, in the beautiful Borgo San Jacopo street, in Oltrarno side, the real side of the river. Staff is the best, friendly, fun but very professional, trust them for your choices, and choose one of the many wine bottles they have.

Open just for dinners, starts serving at 06,30 pm, which is great if you have a theather show, or just leaving early next morning, since the 90% of places in town doesn't open until 07,30 pm.
During the weekends, saturdays and sundays, opens also for lunch.

Go there, and say HI to Massimo the owner or Mauro the Chef from my side, Elaiza!

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco
Borgo San Jacopo, 43 red
Florence
+39 055 215706
www.cinghialebianco.it

Open for dinners from 06,30 to 10,30 pm
open for lunch also on Saturdays and Sundays
closed all day on Wednesdays

Bruschetta and crostini toscani

Cold cuts, pecorino cheese and burrata with truffle

Peposo cooked with Chianti


Tagliata with rosemary

Pandemonio - che buono!

I just love this place. If you want a real tuscan flavour night, this is your place.

The restaurant is located in the beautiful district of Oltrarno, which retained the traditional atmosphere of artisans workers district.

You step in a first room, which is often empty, cause the "heart" is the second room and the inner garden, passing right next to the kitchen.

You will be welcomed by Mamma, which is the great owner of the restaurant, and a real Mum; she will take care of you from the beginning to the end of your meal, preparing and presenting delicious dishes all home made.

The cuisine is the typical toscan one: crostini, cold cuts, home made pasta, great meat, and also some fish.

We ordered the Mamma Antipasto, a huge and various appetizers to taste a bit of all the starters: ham, crostini with tuscan chicken liver paté , Panzanella with cous cous, spelt with sausages, zucchini pie, peppers in oil, the best Bruschetta ever had, sweet and sour onions.... we could have dine even just with the appetizers!

As first course we got: Pappa al pomodoro (typical tomato and bread soup), pasta with Mamma ragout, Fagottini with zucchini, zucchini flowers and Pecorino cheese

As second course we got Ossobuco with peas. We saw a raw Bistecca pass by, and we were about to order it, but we were already way to full to handle it!

As dessert we got a fantastic cheese cake and a Tiramisù

She not pressing you to leave the table, as a bunch of places in town do, and you can also smoke a little sigarette in the little garden, if you feel like.

Prices are in the Florence range, let's say around 50 Euro per person, then depends a lot from the wine you chose, obviously.

Pandemonio

Via del Leone 50 red

0039 055 224002

Closed on Sundays

Delicious Bruschetta

This is what I got from the huge Mamma's Antipasto!

mmmm... it looked good!

Fagottini with zucchini and Pecorino cheese

Pappa al Pomodoro

Ossobuco with peas

Io & Mamma

Sostanza

Mmmmm, how delicious is the Bistecca alla Fiorentina of Sostanza... It's the second of my list, after the one of Buca Lapi . It's a super simple place, you actually share the big marble table with the other customers, but it's fun and most important good.

On the walls plenty of old postcards, vintage and new photos of celebrities that had dinner here. It's a very warm place, it feels like you go to somebody's house.

The menu it's very short, and it's based on the Tuscan tradition - what you eat here it's similar to what you'd have every day in a tuscan family house: vegetable soup, pasta with meat sauce, butter or tomato sauce, an unforgettable artichokes pie, fried or butter chicken (excellent!), veal, bollito (mixed boiled meat served with parsley sauce) and obviously T-Bone Steak.

This steak has to be eaten almost raw, actually bloody, but you can ask for a medium cooking, as I did. It will be still kind of pinkish, but definitely super good, tasty and soft, feels like butter in your mouth. Yummi!


They don't have a lot of desserts, they don't serve coffee or liquors after that, only Vin Santo and Cantuccini, which is our specialty: almond biscuits that you soak in a sweet wine.

Service is pretty fast but friendly and helpful. It remains a very casual Trattoria, which is good sometimes, you'll have a more real flavour of Florence cuisine.

Prices are similar to a regular Trattoria in Florence, it means so not super cheap, we are talking about 35-40 Euro per person, if you don't get Bistecca.

Very important: they do not accept credit cards! Only cash. And during the dinner they have two turns: 7,30 and 09,00 pm. Reservation is definitely recommended.

They close Saturdays and Sundays. During high season they do stay open on Saturdays night.

Trattoria Sostanza

Via del Porcellana, 25

+ 39 055 212691

Florence

Open Lunch and Dinner

No credit cards

Vintage postcards

Tuscan Crostini - with liver patè - typical and yummi

Artichokes Pie


Bistecca for 1 person!


Bistecca for 2!

Dinner @ Buca Lapi

Buca Lapi is considered one of the best Trattoria in Florence - in my opinion is definitely THE best Trattoria! It's simply excellent.

It is a traditional Trattoria, with casual attire and atmosphere, with careful service and refined cuisine. The menu includes all the best of the Tuscan tradition, using excellent products, light ingredients and giving you big portion!

As the name says, Buca, means "hole", the restaurant is located in the cellar in the basement of the 16th century palace of the Antinori Family, a very famous noble family involved in wine business since centuries.

As soon as you turn the corner you will smell the "bistecca flavour". You step down and you will be welcomed by Luciano, the great owner. The kitchen is full screen visible to the guests.

Among the rich tuscan menu, I had the pleasure to taste:

*Antipasti - Starter*

We skipped those, because we wanted to arrived prepared to the second course...

*First course*

- Ravioli stuffed with spinach and ricotta with sage and butter cream

- Maltagliati (hand made pasta squared cut) with veal meat sauce
- Pici (hand made pasta similar to spaghetti but thicker and made by cheese) with meat-sausage-fennel sauce

*Second course*

- Cinta senese fillet (little pig from Siena area)

- Beautiful, amazing, tasty, unforgettable, the best of the best BISTECCA alla Fiorentina

*Dessert*

- Creme Caramel
- Chocolate Cake, an original and unique (and secret!) recipe

Prices are pretty high to be a trattoria, but considering the quality of food is denitively well worthed. We might talk about 60-70 Euros per person for a regular dinner.

Buca Lapi

Via del Trebbio 1/r

+39 055 213768

Open only for dinner. Closed on Sundays

Cucina open space

First course

...mmm... bistecca is coming!

Creme Caramel

Secret chocolate cake