Day trip to Chianti

Chianti

Tuscany is a real gem - lots of historical and beautiful art cities such as Florence, Siena, Lucca, Pisa, Arezzo.... then beaches, mountains and of course the very famous countryside -who doesn't have a postcard in their mind with Tuscany panorama?
Sweet hills, little Borgos, small villages on top of the hill, cute and delicious trattorias and wine cellar where it is possible to taste excellent wines especially our local Chianti wine.

So, here you can find some tips to discover some of my favourite places in the Tuscan area

ALERT: In Italy you cannot drink and drive - laws has just been changed, and now half glass of wine is enough to be out of the rules. So, if you want to enjoy wine-tastings either some of your party will not drink, or you can hire a car and driver, possibly english speaking, so no problem AT ALL.
In case you wish some tips for that, write me, I know very good and professional drivers, personally tested.

Day trip to Chianti from Florence

Leave Florence towards Siena passing by the ancient gate of the city Porta Romana and follow directions to Siena on the Superstrada Firenze-Siena.
Few km later, you will see on your right an extensive cemetery where over 4000 soldier from Usa (especially) and other countries, rest in peace - it is a very important Second World War Cemetery

On your left, right after the exit Bargino, you will see the very modern and impressive Antinori wine cellar - if you wish to visit it, book well in advance your tasting and/or visit to cellar and exit at Bargino itself.

Our first stop will be the famous and beautiful medieval town of San Gimignano. Right before your exit Poggibonsi, you will see in distance a cradle of tall and slender tower-houses, the symbol of San Gimignano.

San Gimignano

About 8 km of sweet turns you will park outside of the ancient gate and take the first epic panorama photo from the wall before getting into the town. Wander around the small streets, shop in the few not touristy places  - I noticed especially a couple of leather shops that looked very very good.
If you have a strong stomach, visit the tortures museum, the best in this topic - difficult to suggest if going after or before lunch....
Climb a tower-house if you wish, this is the most commun type of civil house in the 12th and 13th century - it was used to defend the family in case of attack and they could arrive also to 90 metres - a real skyscraper! Consider in Florence there were 150 tower-houses, then all beheaded to 35-40 metres. San Gimignano is the only town that still preserve 11 tower-houses at original height. Impressive! And iconic.

San Gimignano suffers of very strong mass-tourism attack - so in season it could happen that is very crowded and no parking are available. A good alternative, not far and similar is Certaldo - a very cute medieval town, also with a tower-house, on top of the hill with dramatic panorama.

View from San Gimignano

Ready for your first wine-tasting and lunch?

Take back your car and put Fattoria di Sant'Appiano in your GPS. In 15-20 minutes from San Gimignano (or 5 minutes from the exit of Poggibonsi, in case you are not going to San Gimignano) you will reach this peaceful, relaxing and charming Fattoria - two nice ladies, mother and daughter, will show you how they restyled a 1400 house owned by the glorious Pitti Family and now they host  cooking classes, truffle hunting, wine-tastings accompanied by excellent home made food. And of course the principal activity of the fattoria - olives and grapes harvest!
You will visit the cellar, which is always a dream - a wine-smelly dream. mmmm adorable.
Definitely a good spot, out of the most touristic path, with big buses and lots of crowds.

Cellar at Fattoria Sant'Appiano



Fattoria Sant'Appiano

Ok, should we try also another place?

So, go back on the Superstrada Firenze-Siena towards Firenze - exit at San Donato and go right. You finally will connect with the world-wide famous road of wine n. 222 - it is gorgeus, I admit, but it is not the only road where you can enjoy spectacular views. All the Chianti area is very scenograpic, don't worry about getting the 222 if it is not in your plan. Don't feel guilty ;)

After few stops for taking pictures to a scenary to die for (I swear, you will stop!) you finally get to Azienda Agricola Poggio Amorelli, on top of a gentle hill covered with wineyards, resting after the harvest and waiting for spring.

Florence Bike Tour with Elaiza, me :)

Florence is a quaint city, with a pretty small city center that allows you to visit the main sights just walking from a place to another, in a short time.
But still, having a bike would be a fantastic way to enjoy the beautiful palaces, churches, Piazzas, Lungarni (the streets along the river Arno are called Lungarni)...

The best way is to rent a bike for a couple of hours or more in case you wish to go also to the hills (for example Piazzale Michelangelo and San Miniato al Monte Church).

Where? I wish to suggest you a couple of places:

Bici In Firenze is a service organized by the Comune di Firenze (city hall of Florence) and it is located in front of Santa Maria Novella train station or in Piazza Ghiberti.

The other one is Florence By Bike, located in Via San Zanobi

Bikes of Bici in Firenze

 

So, rent a bike of course, but call also Elaiza, which is the best way to tour around the city!
I could come to your Hotel downtown and pick you up, or we could meet somewhere - we will go to rent the bikes together and we will start a fantastic tour through the medieval streets of Florence, for the most part pedestrian.
We can lock our bikes and visit the inside of Santa Trinita Church, or Orsanmichele, or wherever you want, I'm open to discuss the itinerary with you.

on the way to Santissima Annunziata

On a bike tour with me we will certainly see:

Cathedral Square and Brunelleschi's Dome

Signoria Square

Ponte Vecchio

Repubblica Square

Strozzi Palace

Santa Trinita

Pitti Palace

Santa Maria Novella Square

Santa Croce Square

The nice weather and the Tuscan sun are coming, book a bike tour with Elaiza :)

Santa Croce

Cathedral Square

San Lorenzo

Repubblica Square

Santa Trinita

Palazzo Antinori

Palazzo Spini Feroni

Palazzo Strozzi

Lungarni

Santa Maria Novella

Outlet the Mall and restaurants close by

Florence it's a fantastic city, full of art treasures, nobles palaces, art galleries, sculptures... a month it is not enough to visit all of the secret corners... while you're exploring the city, you might want to desire to do some shopping. Why not, we have the best boutiques, or the small artisan shops... but if you feel like do some shopping AND save a bunch of money, then you have to go to the Outlet the Mall!

It is very famous, people come on purpose, I think it's the best outlet. 22 of the main brands, such as Gucci, Armani, Valentino, Ferragamo, Sergio Rossi, Loro Piana, Marni, Dior, Tod's and so on....

Discount from 30 to 70 %, on items of the past collection.

It is only 30 minutes south Florence, going south on the highway A1 directions Rome; exit at "Incisa Valdarno", turn right after 10-15 minutes ride you'll get to Leccio, the little town where the Mall is located.

Very close by there is also Dolce & Gabbana outlet, and a bit more far away, 20 minutes souther there is Miu Miu and Prada Outlet.

The Mall
Via Europa, 8
Leccio-Reggello

Photo Source: Hotel Rigacci

Inside the Mall there is a cafeteria and a restaurant. But if you want to experience also the typical tuscan cuisine, in the countryside, then follow these tips:

Piazzetta al Burchio - a little Alimentari (a groucery shop) that have few tables where you can have a very simple but incredibly tasty meal. Typical tuscan cuisine, of course, pasta, lasagne, ravioli, tortelli, tagliata, bistecca, fried chicken, also different types of fish and cakes.They have a Menu del Giorno (menu of the day) that changes frequent, written on a simple yellow paper. Prices are incredibly low, first course 5 Euro, second course from 7 to 10 Euro, side dish and desserts 2 Euro. Nothing, no?
It is open every day for lunch and dinner, and it is also take away.

- How to get there from the Mall?
Go back towards Incisa Valdarno (out the Mall turn right) - before to get inside the town of Incisa turn right, cross the river Arno and turn right. Follow that street for 5 minutes and you'll get to a very small group of houses, called "Il Burchio". Park the car and look for the Alimentari, right on the main street.

There is also a Trattoria, but I have not tried. Seems definitely more expensive, and not necessarily better tasting.

Piazzetta Il Burchio

Località il Burchio, 13
055 8330880 - cell 335 6831844

No website
Open daily lunch and dinner

Accept credit cards

Rigatoni Gorgonzola and Mascarpone

Sformati (similar to omelette) of Broccoli, Zucchine and Spinach

Tagliere di salumi and crostini


Tasty Tagliata rosemary

If you want another tip, then I have to tell you a secret place, a pure jem, an Agriturismo located in the middle of Chianti hills, with 4 rooms, an amazing pool, a beautiful traditional restaurant... during the summer they organize open air cinemas, art forum, paitings exhibitions, it is a very cute and interesting place. And of course they produce their own wine, oil, vegetables, raise chickens and rabbits. The owner, Perla, is a charming lady very welcoming and warm.

What's the name of the place? Perlamora. They have fixed menu lunches and dinner, with 25 euro, beverage included, you'll have a full meal of antipasti, 2 first course, a second course and dessert. All products of the Agriturismo.

Go, I love this place.

- how to get there from the Mall?

Go right out the outlet, like going back to highway. Pass the town of Incisa and go on until you get to the next town of Figline Valdarno. Turn right at the Hotel Torricelli, then again right, towards Greve in Chianti and Ponte agli Stolli. Follow directions for Perlamora.

Perlamora

Via Golfonaia, 29

Pavelli - Figline Valdarno

055 951904

Reservation recommended

Accept credit cards

The beautiful Art Decò Villa in front of the agriturismo

the Restaurant


Antipasto Coccoli (like fried bread) ham and stracchino cheese

Sorry, no more photos, too much wine :)

Trattoria da Sergio in San Lorenzo

I had a quick lunch in this super simple Trattoria right in the middle of the Market of San Lorenzo, you'll find it behind the curtains of the hundrends of colourfull stands, in the main street next to the right nave of the Church of San Lorenzo.
I know there is another Sergio, but on the other side of the river, I haven't tried it yet.

This place doesn't have a website, it is very casual, I'll put you the telephone number but I'm not sure they accept reservations...
They're quick, and even if you see it is super packed try to ask to the waiters how long you'll have to wait, they'll give you an idea.

The menu is written on a simple papershit, like the table cloth and the furniture in general, the service, everything is easygoing but the quality of the food is top high, and you have the chance to try the real tuscan trattoria.

I had a "braciola fritta con patate e pomodori" that means fried milanese cotoletta style, with tomatoes and fried potatoes - huge portion and excellent taste!

Da Sergio is open only for lunch, and it is closed on Sundays.

Trattoria da Gozzi Sergio
Since 1915 (wow!)
Piazza S. Lorenzo, 8r
055 281941
Closed every evening and Sunday at lunch

Osteria Cinghiale Bianco - White Wild Boar

Finally I'm posting one of my favourite place in town - Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco, better known among foregneirs as White Wild Boar, which is the exact translation of the italian name. Thereore, plenty of little white wild boars will be your friends during dinner, on the simple paper table cloth, the wine jug, on the walls, everywhere :)
And of course inside your dishes, since the boar is their typical and special ingredient: tagliatelle with wild boar, wild boar stewed, cold cuts made by boar..... yummi!

The menu is based on Tuscan traditions, so all the pasta you can imagine, cold cuts, "crostini" and "bruschetta" and of course meat - also vegetables and some fish, bt mostly meat: "tagliata" "bistecca" " peposo alla fornacina", all famous dishes of our tradition.

Great dessert also, especially the Tiramisu or Strawberries with Mascarpone cream.... God, I could die for it!!

The place is very cozy, small, located in an ancient medieval tower, in the beautiful Borgo San Jacopo street, in Oltrarno side, the real side of the river. Staff is the best, friendly, fun but very professional, trust them for your choices, and choose one of the many wine bottles they have.

Open just for dinners, starts serving at 06,30 pm, which is great if you have a theather show, or just leaving early next morning, since the 90% of places in town doesn't open until 07,30 pm.
During the weekends, saturdays and sundays, opens also for lunch.

Go there, and say HI to Massimo the owner or Mauro the Chef from my side, Elaiza!

Osteria del Cinghiale Bianco
Borgo San Jacopo, 43 red
Florence
+39 055 215706
www.cinghialebianco.it

Open for dinners from 06,30 to 10,30 pm
open for lunch also on Saturdays and Sundays
closed all day on Wednesdays

Bruschetta and crostini toscani

Cold cuts, pecorino cheese and burrata with truffle

Peposo cooked with Chianti


Tagliata with rosemary

Santa Maria Novella Church

Today we are talking about a beautiful florentine Church, called by Michelangelo "my bride", quarterheads of Dominican Friars, who settled in this area just outside the city wall in 1220, when they came into Florence as all of the other friars orders, to help poor people who were living just outside the city and also to survey the ortodoxyof catholicism.

The huge medieval church is impressive - they used to have vibrant speaches that got together plenty of people, that had to stand also outside the church, therefore friars were choosing such big Piazzas.
This square was famous also because here a lot of public games were held, for example the Calcio in Costume (soccer similar to american rugby), or Palio dè Cocchi, a race of 4 two-horses chariots roman style, much beloved by Granduc Cosimo I.

The façade is a very important example of Renaissance - the main artist, Leon Battista Alberti, could mix the already existant medieval façade of the first level with armony and semplicity, working superbly on marble inlaids, using the roman language of columns, geometric shapes such as circles, squares, triangle etc.

Inside, you will be absorbed by a solemn calme and peace - you would admire masterpieces such as Giotto wood crucifix, or Masaccio Trinity, and of course the spectacular chapels frescoed by Ghirlandaio and Filippino Lippi, just to mention some...

Right behind, there is a place that I love in Florence, the Spanish Chapel and the Green Cloister - a pearl, hard to find in Florence, no crowds of people, colourfull and interesting frescoes, dedicated to the Dominican friars history.

Don't forget to visit in Via della Scala 16 the Officina Profumeria Farmacia Santa Maria Novella, famous all over the world for its products, creams, parfums and so on...

The beautiful façade

Spanish Chapel fresco




Green Cloister fresco by Paolo Uccello

Happy Holiday!

Dear All,

I wish to thank you for reading me, even just to look at the pictures, and I wish to say to you Merry Christmas, enjoy this holiday with your family, in health and happiness, that you can realize all of your dreams and if possible be a better human being, more that you already are

Florence under the snow last week was caotic but beautiful, and this is a photo of the day after, when sun was shining and the poor "Winter" statue was eventually freezing for real snow flakes

Auguri!

"Winter" statue by Francavilla, Santa Trinita bridge - Florence

Santa Maria del Fiore

Santa Maria del Fiore is our main Cathedral in town, religious and economic centre since the Middle Age. It has been consacrated to the St. Mary of the Flower, for many reasons, for example cause the white lily is symbol of Florence, or because of the shape, but mainly cause she was the mum of Jesus.

An ancient church, Santa Reparata, was already there since the IV century a.c. but it was replaced by a new gigantic Cathedral, which was started on September 8th 1296 by the knowledgeable architect Arnolfo di Cambio, who actually at the same time was working on Palazzo Vecchio, Santa Croce and the city wall, so refreshing the style all over Florence!

It took more than 150 years to accomplish this beautiful church - in 1436 Brunelleschi just finished the famous Dome, the largest and biggest dome ever built after the roman Pantheon one.

It took actually even more to finish the Cathedral, if you consider that the façade was made only at the end of 19th century!!!


The Duomo is the 3rd larger church in the world, after St. Peter in Rome and St. Paul in London. Inside, it possible to stand up to 40,000 people!


While the decoration of the outside is super rich, the inside is very plain and great inspiration for prayers - you feel so "small" inside, compared to the bigness of this church.

Entrance is free of charge.

the Beautiful Cupola

Amazing façade, finished at the end of 19th century!

Huge and plain interior

Frescoed Cupola by Giorgio Vasari


Representation of Divine Commedy of Dante


Arnolfo di Cambio - the architect who restyled Florence